Pairings | Vinho verde

The best pairings for albarino (and alvarinho)
If I had to sum up the best food pairing for albarino in one word it would be seafood. Which makes sense considering where it comes from on the coast of Galicia in the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain.
It has that distinctive salty tang you get from another of the country’s iconic wines, manzanilla sherry which makes it a great match for all kinds of raw and lightly cooked shellfish but as I discovered from a recent tasting with Mar de Frades there are more complex oaked versions which can handle richer fuller flavours.
The same suggestions apply to its Portuguese counterpart alvarinho which is made just over the border in the Vinho Verde region
Best pairings for young fresh albarinos
Oysters
Fresh white crab
Fresh prawns or shrimp
Mixed shellfish platters
Steamed mussets or clams
Simply grilled fish such as seabass, squid or sardines
Light creamy cheeses like this dish of burrata and beetroot as well as goats cheese
Seafood pastas and risotti like this smoked haddock and leek risotto
Ceviche (marinated raw fish)
Sushi and sashimi
Best pairings for more mature complex albarinos
Caribenero prawns with garlic
Seafood stews
Seared scallops
Arroz negro (black rice with seafood)

The best wine matches with salt cod
Salt cod, a popular Good Friday dish in parts of the Mediterranean, is cooked many different ways which suggest different wine pairings.
Bear in mind that like other salty foods it will have the effect of making wines taste sweeter than they are so drier wines with good acidity work best. In general I’d go for a crisp white like a picpoul or an albarino but there are occasions when a red or rosé will work just as well.
Brandade de morue
This southern French salt cod purée works well with crisp dry whites such as Picpoul de Pinet, slightly earthier whites like a white Côtes du Rhône or a dry southern French rosé
Salt cod croquetas or fish cakes
As you’d expect, very good with chilled fino sherry and albarino but more surprisingly also with savagnin from the Jura
Fried salt cod with garlic-pepper sauce
An ice-cold vinho verde, according to Portuguese-American food writer David Leite who has a particularly good collection of salt cod recipes on his website Leite's Culinaria. It might also work with a grüner veltliner as did this salt cod tartare
Portuguese style baked salt cod with cream (bacalhau com natas)
Also often paired with vinho verde but I’d go for a young Douro white with a lick of oak or - less conventionally - with a white rioja.
A robust dish such as a salt cod stew with tomatoes and peppers (ciambotta) can actually take a full-bodied red, especially if it includes chorizo. See this pairing with a super Tuscan and this match with a Languedoc cabernet/merlot blend.
For more wine pairing ideas with salt cod check out Catavino
Image © uckyo - Fotolia.com

The best wine matches for sardines
Freshly caught grilled sardines are a treat at this time of year but how easy is it fo find a wine that will go with them? Look to the French and Portuguese for inspiration!
In the Languedoc, for example ‘sardinades’ - big communal feasts with chargrilled sardines as the centrepiece - are regular features of the holiday season accompanied by the local crisp Picpoul de Pinet.
In northern Portugal, you may be surprised to find they often drink red wine with them - the local dark frothy Vinho Verde - though white Vinho Verde, which also has a slight spritz, may be more to your taste as might its more upmarket manifestation alvarinho - the Portuguese cousin of Spain’s albarino
Other crisp white wines will work equally well - simple sauvignon blancs (especially from Bordeaux or the Loire), Muscadet, the sharp, lemony Basque wine Txacoli and assyrtiko from Greece though I’d personally steer clear of off-dry and aromatic wines such as riesling and pinot gris (sardines will make them taste sweeter) and oaky whites such as chardonnay.
And a good dry Provençal or Portuguese rosé will suit sardines just fine ...
Photograph © anjokan
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